Part I. Cocoa Side - Where the Bean-to-Bar Chocolate Flavor Comes From

The flavors and aromas of chocolate, especially in the Bean-to-Bar process, are based on four fundamental elements: genetics, fermentation, roasting, and conching. Other factors such as drying, tempering, etc., are also essential for chocolate manufacturing, but they only slightly influence the aromatic profile.

The varied range of flavors that can be discovered when tasting artisan chocolate alone or paired with other products is worth exploring. However, we are aware that, due to its complexity, diving into the world of chocolate flavors can seem intimidating. To guide you, we offer the following formula for understanding chocolate taste:

Chocolate taste = Constitutional aromas + Fermentation aromas + Roasting aromas + Empyreumatic aromas.

In this article, we will present the constitutional aromas related to genetics and terroir in the first part. Regarding chocolates, we will discuss fermentation aromas, roasting aromas, and empyreumatic aromas in the second part.

Cacao side - The cocoa tree

In 1753, the cacao tree entered the European Botanical Herbarium, under the name of Theobroma Cacao L, meaning "Food for the Gods" due to its religious use in Mesoamerica by the Olmecs and Mayans. Today it is described as a small evergreen tree, ranging from 4 to 15 meters high, part of the Malvaceae family. Once pollinated, the flowers produce large colored pods (20 to 60 per tree), containing between 20 and 40 lipid-rich beans covered in an edible sweet pulp. The cacao tree is native to South America (Amazon Basin). Today, it is found throughout the tropical belt. In terms of taste, it is very difficult to distinguish the variety or varieties that make up a chocolate. The terroir, the harvest year, the manufacturing process, and other ingredients play an essential role in the gustatory proposal of cocoa. Currently there are more than a dozen varieties of cacao trees. However, only four varieties are cultivated, presenting distinct constitutional aromas for these four varieties:

 
   

 

The great cacao varieties and taste

 

The Criollo

 

• Description - the criollo (creole), domesticated between 3000 and 1500 BC by the Olmecs in the Maracaibo region of Venezuela. It is reserved for aromatic beans, which represent 3 to 5% of global production. The pods are pointed and warty, in red-violet tones, with white and round beans.
• The taste - The beans have sweet, slightly astringent and fruity aromas.
• Learn more about Forastero cacao in our article: Criollo cacao - rare and wonderful

 
 

 

The Forastero

 

• Description - (the stranger or non-creole) was domesticated in 1639 by Spanish Jesuits in the Bahia region of Brazil. It is used for so-called "raw" cocoa, which represents 80 to 90% of global production. The pods are round and smooth, green or yellow in color with purple, flat beans.
• The taste - The beans have strongly bitter, astringent and acidic aromas.
• Learn more about Forastero cacao in our article: Forastero cacao: robust and versatile

   

 
 

Nacional

 

• Description - the Nacional or “arriba de babahoyo” (from above) has been domesticated since 1635 in Ecuador. Similar to Forastero, the pods are round and smooth, green or yellow in color with purple beans, but it has a very distinct aroma (jasmine, floral and orange blossom). It is rare and represents only 1 to 3% of global production.
• The taste - The beans have sweet and floral aromas, slightly astringent and bitter.
• Learn more about Forastero cacao in our article: Nacional cacao: a national treasure to discover

   

 

 
 

The Trinitario

 

• Description - a hybrid of Criollo and Forastero, which represents 10 to 15% of global production and combines the main characteristics of both varieties.
• The taste - Trinitario being a hybridization of Criollo, the resulting tastes are a blend that will depend on a stronger or weaker presence of Criollo. Astringent and acidic fruity aromas can be found.
• Learn more about Forastero cacao in our article: Trinitario cacao: a fusion of excellence between Criollo and Forastero

 

 
For the past ten years, the classification of cacao varieties has been completely challenged by the introduction of new genetic techniques. These allow tracing the DNA of cacao trees and their geographical origin; simple physical and gustatory distinctions are no longer solely used. Thanks to this innovation, a large number of varieties have been identified, and some, like Forastero, having too great genetic diversity, have been fragmented into subcategories. Today, more than 10 groups can be cited: Amelonado, Contamana, Criollo, Curaray, Guiana, Iquitos, Maranon, Nacional, Nanay, and Purus. This new diversity is all the more interesting because it offers a wide field of exploration and could be the source of new gustatory and biological discoveries as described in the article "The use and domestication of Theobroma cacao during the mid-Holocene in the upper Amazon." 

Terroirs and taste

In addition to genetics, terroirs play a crucial role in the aromatic palette. The smaller the scale of the farm, the greater the expression of the terroir. Here is a small lexicon to guide you in defining terroirs:

• Blend - Mix of beans
• Origin - Beans from a country
• Grand Cru - Beans from a region
• Estate - Beans from a farm

However, genetics and terroir, which are intrinsic factors to cacao, are not the only elements influencing chocolate taste: two major steps that take place on the farm can impact the taste of chocolate. These are fermentation and drying, carried out by cacao farmers. Cacao bean processing techniques vary greatly depending on the country and the financial means of the producers: in its simplest form, the cacao farmer makes a pile of beans directly on the ground covered with banana leaves to protect them from the sun's UV rays (often used in Africa) or uses closed wooden boxes to continuously monitor fermentation. Here is a brief overview of the impact of these two key steps, which are often beyond the control of chocolatiers, except for "Tree-to-Bar" producers.

 

Cacao fermentation

After harvesting, the cacao beans are removed from the pods, then gathered in piles or wooden boxes, and covered, usually with banana leaves. The combination of tropical climate, darkness, and sugar (the pulp) triggers chemical reactions favored by spontaneous yeasts and bacteria present on the leaves and box walls. This process releases ethanol from the glucose in the pulp and converts it into acetic acid. Once the beans are covered with acetic acid, the final stage of fermentation can begin. They then absorb the acids, triggering enzymatic reactions that release the first sought-after cacao aromas. This transformation generally takes between 5 and 7 days. This step, if too short or too long, can drastically change the taste of the cacao.

• Under-fermentation produces so-called "slaty" cacao beans, meaning the cotyledons take on slaty (bluish-gray) or purple colors. These beans are not sufficiently fermented, which results in diminished constitutional and fermentative aromas. In the aromatic sector, if more than 40% of the beans are purple or if 3% are slaty, the batch may be rejected by the chocolatier.
• Fermentation with undesirable microorganisms can lead to the appearance of unwanted tastes such as acidity, bitterness, or rough or rotten flavors.

Please note: the impact of fermentation is a complex and still poorly understood science. It often happens that cacaos considered poorly fermented by industrial standards produce exceptional chocolates.

 

Cacao drying

After fermentation, it is necessary to dry the beans to reduce their moisture content and prevent mold growth during transport, which is often long, to processing countries. To do this, farmers spread the beans on large surfaces to dry for several days. Once dry, they are packed in bags for shipment. Depending on the country, humidity levels, and season, drying can take a week. If the farmer has more resources or participates in a cooperative, the process can also be mechanized (electric, wood, or gas oven).

Improper drying can lead to the formation of moldy beans, showing white spots that are reflected in the taste. A batch of beans containing more than 3% moldy beans is rejected in the aromatic sector.