The taste and aromas of chocolate are based on four main elements: genetics, fermentation, roasting, and conching. Other elements are essential for chocolate production (drying, tempering, etc.) but only slightly influence the aromatic profile. We have explored, from the cocoa side, genetics and terroirs. To remember, the taste of chocolate = Primary aromas + Fermentation aromas + Roasting aromas + Empyreumatic aromas. In this article, we will present the fermentation aromas, roasting aromas, and empyreumatic aromas in Part II.
Chocolate side: Fermentation - 4 to 7 days
The beans are generally gathered in wooden boxes and covered with banana leaves. The combination of the tropical climate, darkness, and sugar (pulp) triggers chemical reactions favored by spontaneous yeasts and bacteria. This process releases ethanol from the glucose present in the pulp and converts it into acetic acid, which raises the temperature to over 65°C. The absorption of this liquid by the beans triggers enzymatic reactions, releasing the highly sought-after aroma precursors or fermentation aromas of cocoa and sterilizing the beans.
Fermentation aromas - Developed during fermentation
E.g. vegetal (moss), undergrowth (humus), berry (currant), esters, and alcohol.
Please note - Different terroirs produce different chocolates; climate, soil, local microorganisms, etc. must be taken into account.
Roasting - 30 to 110 minutes
It consists of exposing the beans to a temperature varying between 90°C and 150°C for several minutes with variations in intensity. This continuous exposure allows the last enzymatic reactions, known as Maillard reactions, to take place, amplifying (acidity, bitterness, etc.) and developing new aromas (roasted). Depending on the duration, temperature, size, and components of the bean chosen by the chocolatier, the roasting process will influence the intensity of the cocoa. Roasting aromas also offer toasted notes varying in power and intensity.
Roasting aromas - Developed during roasting
E.g. roasted (coffee, cocoa, toasted bread)
Please note - Roasting only reveals the aromatic qualities of fermentation.
Mixing and Conching - 8 to 72 hours
Once the beans are transformed into cocoa mass, the chocolatier will mix them to homogenize the different ingredients (cocoa mass, sugar, etc.) using a mill. This machine consists of a circular basin equipped with two rotating stones. Once started, it heats by friction (~50°C) and stirs the ingredients to transform them into a homogeneous and smooth liquid, chocolate. Once the desired particle size is obtained, the chocolatier moves on to conching by incorporating air and heat. This slow mixing allows all the potential of the so-called empyreumatic aromas of chocolate to be revealed using a mill or a conche. Once this process is complete, the chocolate is cooled to solidify and matured. This refining step can last several months.
Empyreumatic aromas, developed during conching, illustrate, for example, the reduction and amplification of acidity during the incorporation of heat and air.
Please note - New mixing techniques, such as the use of ball mills, are emerging and gradually revolutionizing production methods.
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