This month, we'll guide you through the history of an emblematic cocoa variety: "Arriba Nacional," CNN51, and the committed chocolatier Mashpi. Head to Ecuador to understand how this national treasure almost disappeared!
The Origin of Cocoa in Ecuador
An analysis of organic components in pottery from Ecuadorian archaeological sites (in northern Amazonia) reveals the use of cocoa dating back over 2,000 years. It is during this period that indigenous communities in the Amazon are believed to have discovered the taste properties of cocoa. Some anthropologists and researchers, such as Prof. Michael Blake (Canada), even estimate that the cultivation of cocoa in the Amazon basin could date back over 5,000 years. The golden age of Ecuadorian cocoa was in 1800, a period when the country became the largest cocoa producer in the world. This history ended a century later with epidemics that affected local plantations.
Cacao Nacional
Ecuador currently has two genetically distinct cocoa productions: CCN51 and Arriba Nacional. CCN51 is a hybrid cultivated to meet industrial demand and thus covers nearly 3% of world production. Unlike CCN51, Nacional beans are recognized as fine aromatic cocoa and are also called "pepa de oro." They represent the original variety and a part of the country's cultural heritage.
This endemic variety almost disappeared at the beginning of the 20th century. The first reason was an epidemic of witches' broom disease, which devastated this variety throughout the country in 1916 and 1919.
The second reason was the rise of intensive agriculture in the 1990s with the arrival of CCN51, thus neglecting aromatic cocoa or mixing it with this hybrid, which has higher productivity.
Nacional (right) vs CCN51 (left)
Renaissance of Nacional
Since the 2010s, we have witnessed a magnificent effort to preserve this variety by renovating plantations and promoting Nacional cocoa in Ecuador. Agroforestry projects such as 12tree with Hacienda Limon, Finca Garyth, or the essential Mashpi demonstrate the local Farm-to-Bar know-how. Ecuador has thus reconnected with the recognition of the cocoa world, but this time it is for its aromatic Nacional cocoa!
Mashpi, Committed Chocolatier
It's a family project that's over 10 years old: Mashpi is the name of a river, a valley, and a community (Comunidad Mashpi de San Jose, Chocó bioregion). Beyond Nacional cocoa, Mashpi is a forest conservation and restoration project. Nacional beans are grown in regenerative agricultural and silvicultural systems that respect the rhythms of nature. The Mashpi farm and neighboring farms therefore combine cocoa cultivation with fruits, spices, and seeds of high nutritional value such as guava, calamondin, and many more!
Mashpi Lodge Ecuador
Aromatic Profile
Nacional cocoa has a rare and precious aromatic profile. It is defined by its balance and characteristic floral aromas (rose, jasmine). There are also notes of citrus and dried fruits, as well as caramelized or licorice touches that prolong the effect in the mouth.
Nacional Pod from Ecuador, Ecuacao
Comments