The Bean-to-Bar movement originated in the 2000s in the United States, and we are following its emergence in Asian countries with keen interest. One country in particular has captured our attention: Vietnam.
The History of Cocoa in Vietnam
Cocoa was introduced by French colonists at the end of the 19th century, taking advantage of the fertile soil and ideal climate of the Mekong Delta with its alluvial land. One of the first plantations is believed to have been established by Father Gernot, a Catholic priest. But in 1907, the colonial administration abolished bonuses for cocoa producers, deeming the crop unprofitable. For several decades, cocoa was almost abandoned, except for local consumption in the Mekong region. Between 1920 and 1930, cocoa production was disappointing, not exceeding 1 ton.
Cocoa cultivation almost disappeared between the 1940s and 1970s, due to the successive conflicts the country experienced (Indochina War and Vietnam War). Cocoa remained very marginal and often reserved for family use. One local use was the maceration of beans in rice alcohol to soften the drink and add some chocolate notes, or fresh cocoa.
In the 1980s, an attempt was made to revive production with the support of the Soviet Union and Cuban agronomists, but the fall of the Berlin Wall put an end to this initiative.
The Resurrection of Cocoa in Vietnam
It was not until the early 2000s that Vietnamese cocoa truly began to flourish again. Public actors, such as Nong Lam University of Agriculture, and international companies joined forces to develop local production. Research led by Dr. Pham Hong Duc Phuoc helped select the cocoa tree varieties best suited to the Vietnamese climate. This project laid the groundwork by defining genetic characteristics and distinct geographical areas that thus became the new Vietnamese terroirs and brought novelty to the international cocoa scene. However, cocoa prices remained low, and it was not until 2008 that significant enthusiasm among producers was seen, thanks to a continuous rise in prices.
See Dr. Pham Hong Duc Phuoc's article "Molecular characterization of Vietnamese cocoa genotypes (Theobroma cacao L.) using microsatellite markers"
Cocoa cultivars from hybridization.
With an annual production of only 5,000 tons, Vietnam is still far from the export levels of major African producers. However, the country is focusing on niche markets, particularly thanks to the quality of its beans, which have already won over many international chocolatiers. Alain Ducasse praised the freshness and quality of Vietnamese beans at the last Salon du Chocolat, confirming their promising potential. Today, in addition to the Mekong Delta, the Central Highlands have also become important regions for cocoa production.
Photo from Vietnam Autrement - Discovering Vietnamese Chocolate
Vietnamese Pioneers
It wasn't until the early 2010s that the first Asian Bean-to-Bar brand, Marou, emerged. The founders, Samuel and Vincent (originally from France), went to Vietnam to discover cocoa with a unique aromatic palette. They use 100% local ingredients to create chocolate that pays homage to six Vietnamese terroirs, which have become benchmarks. They thus contributed to the revival of artisanal cocoa cultivation in Vietnam, a practice that was disappearing in the face of other agricultural practices.
Marou founders, Samuel and Vincent.
Other brands like Belvie, created by a Belgian chocolatier, or Cacaoken, founded by a Japanese in Dalat, have also contributed to the growing reputation of Vietnamese cocoa. Among the local brands are Alluvia, Kimmy’s Chocolate, Baria Chocolate, and Azzan, which highlight their regional origins, whether in the Mekong Delta or the Dak Lak highlands. Brands like Savie and Tbros continue to adopt a 100% Vietnamese and artisanal approach.
Vietnam's Cocoa Terroirs
With an annual production representing less than 0.2% of global production, Vietnam positions itself as a small producer focusing on high-quality cocoa such as Trinitario hybrids (B14 or B10) which have made the reputation of a terroir like Dak Lak.
But the cradle of Vietnamese cocoa remains Ben Tre, the coastal province in the Mekong Delta. A low-lying tropical region with a vast network of rivers, rice paddies, and swamps. It has hundreds of kilometers of canals extending far into the agricultural lands. The land is extremely fertile and has been cultivated for over a century.
Vietnam, a land of green mountains and fertile soils, offers an exceptional diversity of cocoa terroirs. At Marou, each bean tells the story of its origin, revealing unique flavors shaped by the varied climates and soils of six Vietnamese provinces.
In Tiền Giang, in the Mekong Delta, cocoa grown on isolated islands reveals delicate notes of cinnamon and honey. Đắk Lắk, located in the highlands, produces an intense chocolate with spicy accents of humus and earth. In Đồng Nai, beans from the tropical hills offer a creamy tasting experience with nuances of tropical fruits. Lâm Đồng province offers cocoa with sweet flavors of prune, raisin, and espresso, while Bà Rịa produces a powerful, fruity, and atypical chocolate. Finally, Bến Tre, known for its coconut trees, brings exotic notes of dried coconut and fresh banana.
Map of Vietnam
A Promising Future
Vietnam, though young in the cocoa scene, promises to assert itself in the world of chocolate. Its beans, with their unique aromatic profile, and the commitment of its artisans to sustainable and high-quality practices make Vietnamese chocolate a discovery not to be missed by all fine cocoa enthusiasts. This new Eldorado is ready to conquer palates worldwide, strong in its diversity and passion for chocolate.
Source
- Interview, Chocolatier Marou
- Article, Vietnamese Chocolate from Amica
- Article, Discovering Vietnamese Chocolate from Vietnam Autrement
- Article Molecular characterization of Vietnamese cocoa genotypes (Theobroma cacao L.) using microsatellite markers by Dr. Pham Hong Duc Phuoc
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