Chocolats du monde returns from a visit to Peru and shares its travel diary. Before the story, a historical note. The San Martín region is now a pillar of national production. Since the 1990s, it has established itself as a key territory in agricultural reconversion, when many producers abandoned illicit crops for cocoa, driven by public programs and local cooperatives. Nearly half of Peruvian production comes from this area, whose economy remains closely linked to this crop. Historically, the region has often been associated with intensive monoculture; today, it is trying to redefine its image by highlighting its Amazonian identity and diversified agroforestry systems.
On roads lined with plantations, the dominant varieties remain visible: CCN51 and ICS-95. CCN51 — an Ecuadorian hybrid developed in the 1960s (Colección Castro Naranjal 51), derived from the Trinitario group — has become prominent for its productivity and resistance. Its dark, larger beans often yield a more direct, sometimes astringent, aromatic profile, less complex than traditional fine cocoas. Conversely, certain ICS (Imperial College Selection) varieties, particularly ICS-95, are sought after for their aromatic finesse but require more demanding agronomic management. This coexistence already tells the story of San Martín: a territory caught between yield and qualitative renaissance.
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Let the journey begin 28.02.2026, San Martin.
We land in Tarapoto in the middle of the rainy season, after passing through a dense cloud in a small plane that seems to float above an infinite green sea. The Peruvian Amazon then appears as a shifting carpet of deep forests, crossed by winding rivers and punctuated by isolated villages. The journey takes place in a particular context: after experiencing the highest prices in the recent history of the cocoa industry — exceeding $10,000/ton — the market has sharply declined in recent months, directly impacting the quality of life for cooperatives and producers. It is in this moment of uncertainty that we travel to one of the epicenters of Peruvian cocoa.
Chazuta and Majambo
Upon our arrival in Tarapoto, our journey begins on the winding roads towards Chazuta, alongside the Huallaga River, swollen by the rains. The muddy tracks bear witness to recent torrents, and it is after several hours that we reach the Allima cooperative.
The region is known for the presence of Theobroma bicolor, called majambo, a cousin of cocoa that has remained in the shadow of its famous relative. Little known to the general public, it finds refuge here in Allima's artisanal workshops, where it is transformed into chocolate, ice cream, or salted beans. Majambo is much like this cooperative: difficult to access but generous once discovered. We also taste its derivatives: cocoa honey, fermented pulp, and a local distillate of nearly 40%, infused with tree bark, said to provide energy and vigor.
Chazuta itself has a rich history: a former indigenous ceramic center, it still preserves artisanal traditions inherited from pre-Columbian Amazonian cultures. This cultural dimension nourishes the identity of local cocoa.
Lamas and the Andean mists
Before hitting the road again, we climb towards the mountains of Lamas, a city founded in the 17th century and known for its Quechua Lamista population (Amazonian Quechua that evolved under the influence of Jesuit and Franciscan missions, becoming a jungle language). Often shrouded in clouds, this valley offers ideal conditions for cocoa and Arabica coffee.
Here, we meet the Oro Verde cooperative, founded in 1999, a pioneer in organic cocoa in Peru. Faced with climate change and market volatility, it adopts an integrated approach: purchasing, processing, and producing finished products. The coffees tasted here offer notes of caramel and a stimulating intensity, while their cocoas express a balanced sweetness, reflecting cooler terroirs.
Juan Guerra and Modernity
Our journey continues towards Juan Guerra, a symbol of a new generation of infrastructure supported by the Peruvian state to modernize the cocoa sector. Near Rioja and Moyobamba — historic cities founded in the 16th century during colonial expansion into the Amazon — we visit modern fermentation centers equipped with systems capable of processing large volumes.
These facilities help standardize quality, extend the supply season, and support neighboring cooperatives. They illustrate the evolution of a sector that was long artisanal towards a more structured organization.
Juanjuí, reconversion and ancestral practices
Continuing towards Juanjuí, the landscape changes: vast plains of rice and soy follow one another, divided by coconut trees and bordered by the Huallaga. Founded in the 19th century, Juanjuí developed as a river trade hub.
We meet the Cuencas del Huallaga cooperative, equipped with brand new fermentation units, with over 24 boxes. Specializing in certified high-end cocoa, they tell us their story: once focused on coffee, they reconverted to cocoa after rust epidemics and the impact of global warming.
A few kilometers away, the Choba Choba micro-cooperative brings together about thirty producers committed to single-origin native cocoas, often from local selections close to the Criollo and Amazonian Nacional groups. Their beans now supply bean-to-bar chocolatiers in Europe, particularly in Switzerland.
Tocache, the cocoa giant
We end our journey in Tocache, accessible after a long mountainous crossing. The scenery changes again: thick forests, persistent mist, then a descent to the plain where warehouses and exporters are concentrated.
We spend time with APROC, where beans are hand-sorted to ensure consistent quality. At CECAT, an exporting cooperative, diversification tells another facet of the territory: during the pandemic, they produced chocolate, cocoa butter, but also 70% disinfectant alcohol. Here, creativity becomes a survival strategy.
Genetics and terroirs: a living mosaic
San Martín is home to a fascinating genetic mosaic today. In addition to CCN51 and ICS-95, there are hybrid populations derived from Amazonian Criollo, Forastero, and Trinitario, as well as local selections preserved by cooperatives. Peruvian programs have also encouraged the conservation of native varieties identified in the Huallaga and Mayo valleys.
For bean-to-bar enthusiasts, this diversity translates into the cup: fruity, floral, sometimes lactic profiles, contrasting with the more robust notes of intensive hybrids. This blend tells the story of a region still in transition between volume and sensory expression.
San Martín is both memory and promise. Heir to colonial routes, marked by contemporary agricultural reconversions, it embodies the evolution of Peruvian cocoa today. Behind each bean lie landscapes, communities, and constant creativity.
Lima, Peru
We finish our journey in Lima, the capital of Peru, where the culture of cocoa and artisanal aromatic chocolate making has been present for several decades. The alternative cocoa movement did not wait for Europe to develop its own local expressions of chocolate. Here, artisan chocolatiers and cocoa growers coexist, often sharing the same role, redefining what it means to be both a producer and a processor.
We took the time to visit a place dedicated to cocoa and coffee, created by an anthropologist, El cacaotal. Accompanied by his team, we explored the different terroirs of the country and discovered their particular flavors through a precise and educational tasting.
The last stop is at Lima airport, in the international zone. A display is dedicated to Peruvian bean-to-bar brands — such as Maraná, Cacaosuyo, Shattell, and Cacaosuyo — offering travelers a glimpse into the country's rich chocolate heritage. Chocolates that are sometimes difficult to find elsewhere become accessible here to all those crossing Peru, concluding the journey on a gourmet note that reveals the vitality of Peruvian cocoa.
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