Chocolats du Monde has returned from a trip to Ivory Coast, where Sacha Malka explored the cacao industry of this giant of the cacao world.
Ivory Coast is a vast West African country and the world's leading producer, supplying 40% of the international market's cocoa. Traversing the country from east to west, you'll encounter countless small trees with large, soft green leaves. While cocoa beans are present at all levels of society today as a means of livelihood for many Ivorians, they are also a sensitive and highly regulated subject for the country's economy.
In this article, Sacha takes you on a journey to discover the characteristics and history of this land of cocoa, which is now also threatened by climatic and agronomic upheavals that have reduced its production by more than 33%.
How is Ivorian cocoa produced, and what is its aromatic profile?
The "cocoa belt" is a geographical zone located around the equator (20° North and South) that crosses Ivory Coast. In this area, the lands from east to west are suitable for cocoa production. This climatic specificity makes it the perfect place for its cultivation. The history of cocoa in Ivory Coast is deeply linked to the colonial era, marked by the arrival of the French at the end of the 19th century. When Ivory Coast became a colony in 1899, the economy was primarily based on rubber, palm oil, and a few food crops. However, from the beginning of the 20th century, colonists identified cocoa's potential as a profitable export crop, similar to what had been done in neighboring Ghana, where most of the cultivars came from. These were the same cultivars that had been imported by the Portuguese from Brazil via São Tomé and Bioko.
Cocoa cooperative, drying and blending of productions
Beginning of cocoa cultivation (1900 - 1930)
Cocoa cultivation truly took off in the early 1900s. At the time, cocoa development was encouraged by the colonial government, which saw this crop as a way to generate significant revenue through exports. To promote cocoa cultivation, the colonial administration implemented favorable agricultural policies, such as the free distribution of cocoa seedlings and technical assistance to small local farmers, unlike the Portuguese colonies which built large "roça" plantations operating at the expense of enslaved people. However, enthusiasm for this crop was still limited, as Ivorian producers were not yet familiar with cocoa and preferred to focus on traditional food crops. "The Frenchman Arthur Verdier was the first to truly bring value to the Assinie region (the first French trading post in Ivory Coast) starting in 1870. Under Verdier's impetus, the first coffee trees were planted in 1881, and cocoa cultivation began at the same time." (2)
Expansion under colonial influence (1930 - 1960)
In the 1930s, the colonial government intensified its efforts to increase cocoa production. Much of this expansion was achieved through the implementation of coercive policies, including the imposition of production quotas and the mobilization of labor. Local populations, mainly the Baoulé and Bété, were encouraged, or even forced, to cultivate cocoa. Colonial authorities used practices such as forced labor to create large plantations and meet production targets. During this period, many workers from other regions of Ivory Coast or neighboring colonies were recruited to work on cocoa plantations. It was at this time that cocoa began to expand into the eastern and southern regions of Ivory Coast, such as the Aboisso and Abengourou areas.
Cocoa as an economic driver (1945 - 1960)
After World War II, global demand for cocoa exploded, further boosting production in Ivory Coast. The French continued to invest in agricultural infrastructure, building roads and railways to facilitate the transport of cocoa to ports, particularly Abidjan and San Pedro. Cocoa became a key product of the Ivorian colonial economy, representing a significant portion of the country's exports. In the 1950s, Ivory Coast became the third largest cocoa producer in the world, after Ghana and Brazil. However, the wealth generated by this crop primarily benefited colonists and large French trading companies. Small Ivorian farmers, although numerous, received limited income and were often indebted to colonial traders and lenders.
Legacy and post-independence transition (after 1960)
When Ivory Coast gained independence in 1960 under the leadership of Félix Houphouët-Boigny, cocoa cultivation was already well established in the country. Cocoa continued to play a central role in the Ivorian economy, and Houphouët-Boigny, himself from a family of planters, encouraged its development. The post-independence government inherited the colonial infrastructure for cocoa and sought to modernize and nationalize the sector, but the inequalities created during the colonial period persisted, with a strong economic dependence on this export crop.
"Tout venant" cocoa pod
What challenges does Ivorian cocoa face today?
Today, Ivorian cocoa depends on a system regulated by the Coffee-Cocoa Council, which sets purchase prices for the sector at each stage and modifies them for each season. This price initially sought to protect producers and the Ivorian economy from market volatility. However, this system has been heavily criticized because the surge in global prices has not benefited cocoa producers, who have seen the farm gate price increase only to about 2 USD per kilogram, while other countries could sell at five times that price.
Today, remuneration issues are compounded by sharp production losses caused by a standardized cocoa monoculture system, which has led to increased deforestation, reducing forest cover to less than 7% of its initial coverage. Under these conditions, climate change, with its droughts and heavy rains, has disrupted production and made cocoa trees more vulnerable to pests and diseases. To renew itself, the Ivorian sector is exploring new practices like agroforestry to try and give its producers a new lease of life, with several major initiatives led by the government to increase the presence of shade trees on plantations. However, the benefits of these policies will only be observable in about ten years. To date, the cocoa sector is under strong pressure, and some farmers are turning to more stable productions like cashew nuts or oil palm.
Why is Ivory Coast cocoa shunned by the Bean-to-Bar world?
Ivory Coast cocoa is often poorly regarded by chocolatiers. Yet, it is the most widespread: the one everyone has tasted at least once. It forms the base of your Mars bars or your Lindt tablets. Inherited from colonial agronomists, the prevalent cultivar is essentially Forastero, locally called "le tout venant" or "the Mercedes." It was primarily chosen for its productivity, not its taste. Today, the Ivorian producer often lives on the poverty line, which limits their ability to improve the quality of their production. Another limiting factor is the license required to buy cocoa, issued by the Coffee-Cocoa Council, which restricts buyers to a few large traders or major cocoa names like Barry Callebaut, Semoir, or Olam. This limits access for small and medium-sized chocolatiers to the market and sets production criteria to standards designed to meet the demand of industry giants.
Cocoa storage in Daloa
Source:
- 1. Cocoa cultivation and deforestation in Ivory Coast. Interview with Mohamed Diakité
- 2. The history of Cocoa in Ivory Coast, cacao.ci
- 3. From cocoa to vanilla, a history of colonial plants, Serge Voler
Comments