The history of cocoa in India began with the British occupation in the late 18th century, when the country was still part of the British Empire. The British used their colonies around the world as agricultural bases for cocoa to meet the demand for chocolate. The beginnings in India were not a resounding success as the first cocoa imports used fragile Criollo varieties that never truly adapted to the local conditions in southern India, although they can be found in Sri Lanka today.
Cocoa cultivation in India did not truly take off until the 1960s, when Cadbury, with the support of the World Bank and Kerala Agricultural University, launched initiatives in cocoa cultivation. Recognizing the great potential of the warm forest regions of southern India, companies and institutions raised awareness about cocoa among local farmers, while conducting research and trials to identify viable, high-yield cocoa varieties. Due to cocoa's preference for a warm but shaded climate year-round, cocoa is only suited to the southern states of Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, and Karnataka. Most of the cocoa plants grown in India today are of the Forastero variety.
The current status of cocoa
To date, Indian cocoa accounts for only about 1% of global production. For the most part, cocoa grown in India is used directly to meet local demand which, in the world's second most populous country, far exceeds supply. The chocolate market is still dominated by two major names: Cadbury and Nestlé, which have nothing to do with the high-quality chocolate offered by local and global artisans using this terroir.
Currently, Indian cocoa production is relatively stable and healthy, although there is still room for improvement, particularly in trade. By interacting directly with artisan chocolate makers and developing the necessary knowledge to learn how to transform cocoa into chocolate, India will add value to the sector. Fortunately, the last twenty years in India have seen a slow rise of the artisan chocolate movement, even if it is still a niche.
The emblematic terroir of Kerala and the Idukki hills
Kerala Idukki by Cacao Silva
At the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent, we find the majestic rolling terrain of the Idukki district in Kerala state. Endowed with the highest peak in the Western Ghats, Anamudi, and evergreen forests home to diverse plant and animal species, the district has acquired and maintained the prestigious title of the largest producer and exporter of spices in Kerala state. The green mountains and valleys are known for over twelve varieties of spices, including cardamom, pepper, garlic, ginger, nutmeg, and more. Cocoa plants find their best habitat in these serene mountains and valleys, which benefit from abundant sunshine and rainfall.
Go ground coop fermentation by Cacao Silva
With Kerala being the second largest cocoa producing state in India, much of which comes from the Idukki hills, these beans are recognized for their aromatic qualities and are increasingly sought after by artisans worldwide. The cocoa beans grown here are of an impressive size, cradled by the serenity of the surroundings.
Go ground
Go Ground was founded in 2015 by Luca Beltrami and Ellen Taerwe. The company sources cocoa directly from approximately 200 small farmers in the Malabar forest region. Go Ground maintains close contact with farmers and helps them improve their farming practices. Experienced cocoa growers are invited to teach grafting and budding techniques.
More information about the Go Ground cooperative from Silva Cacao with a full interview with Luca Beltrami and Ellen Taerwe.
You can find Idukki beans in a growing number of Bean-to-Bar creations such as StandOut or by discovering new Indian artisan chocolate makers!
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