Peru offers a unique setting for cocoa cultivation with its many faces and varied climates. From the coastal desert surrounding Lima, to the hot and humid Amazon jungle, to the majestic volcanoes of Arequipa, each region reveals unique nuances in the cocoa it produces. Today, we explore the history of cocoa in this country, which saw the rise and fall of the great Inca Empire.
The Cacao Tree and its Inca Roots
The Incas thrived in the Andean region of Peru between the 15th and 16th centuries. They played a significant role in the cultivation and consumption of cocoa in this part of the world. For the Incas, cocoa was a precious commodity, touching the sacred realm. They called it "chocolatl," a word that inspired the name of the chocolate we know today. Cocoa was consumed as a drink, often mixed with spices, honey, or other ingredients to soften the flavors.
Cocoa, a National Treasure
With an annual production of 56,000 tons, representing less than 2% of global production, Peru has made a name for itself in the world of high-quality "fine" cocoa, producing up to 20% of it. The reputation of Peruvian cocoa is not limited to its unique flavor; it also plays a crucial role as an alternative to coca cultivation, thus offering an escape from the pressure exerted by traffickers on many farmers.
Peru's commitment to sustainable agriculture and the preservation of its terroirs makes it a key player in the global organic cocoa industry. More and more artisan chocolatiers recognize the gustatory value of these terroirs, thus contributing to the development of the world's leading organic sector. This movement was supported by the Peruvian government, which declared cocoa cultivation a "National Heritage" in 2012.
The Diversity of Peruvian Terroirs
The cocoa of this country is dominated by the Criollo variety, which is prevalent throughout the territory. However, a fascinating and often misunderstood characteristic of Peruvian cocoa is the genetic diversity mixing traditional species (criollo, nacional, Contamana, Curaray, Marañón, etc.) and hybrids (ICS 95, CYP-99, etc.). Hybrid varieties were introduced starting in 1916, following an epidemic that devastated traditional varieties. Thanks to this diversity of varieties, the trees have adapted to the different Peruvian microclimates, and all 12 regions of the country produce cocoa. Each of these regions brings its own aromatic contribution, creating a mosaic of highly coveted flavors. The regions of San Martín, Cusco, or Piura offer a distinct terroir, influenced by factors such as altitude, soil, climate, and local biodiversity.
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Fine Cocoa for Great Chocolatiers
With such impressive and rich cocoa cultivation, it is only natural that the Bean-to-Bar world turns to Peruvian cocoa. Testifying to this appeal are prestigious artisan chocolatiers from around the world such as Orfève (Switzerland), Racine Carrée (France), Qantu (Canada), etc. But we must also mention the excellent Peruvian artisan chocolate makers (Farm-to-Bar) such as Kuyay, Cacao Suyo, and Maraná.
This month, Chocolats du Monde pays homage to the diversity of Peru with the delicious creations of Maraná, which transports us from Cusco to San Martín.
Maraná, a Chocolatier Proud of its Heritage
A Peruvian chocolate factory, founded by Zulema and Giuseppe, the company aims to highlight Peruvian culture, with carefully selected beans and illustrations on their packaging. Both have committed themselves to helping farmers improve their quality of life through direct trade and by encouraging sustainable agricultural practices. Maraná's beans come from three regions: Piura, San Martin, and Cusco, demonstrating the full aromatic diversity of these three exceptional terroirs.
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Bar of the three terroirs Cusco, Piura, and San Martin from Maraná
PERU, SAN MARTIN 70% BY MARANÁ
A bar with fruity aromas of red berries, a lingering vegetal and undergrowth finish evoking humus and moss, like a breath of fresh autumn air.
Terroir: San Martin stands out as an important hub for cocoa production. Nearly half of the national bean production comes from this area, where the economy is heavily dependent on this crop. The plantations in the Tarapoto region are surrounded by the Amazon rainforest and were pioneers in the development of organic cocoa in Peru. Approximately 90% of the production is destined for export, testifying to the appetite of multinational chocolate companies such as ALTER ECO Organic, Lindt, and Equitable.
San Martin region photo by Amerika
PERU, CUSCO 70% BY MARANÁ
A chocolate with the traditional taste of Peru, boasting an enchanting fruity flavor reminiscent of raisins, candied plums, and subtle tropical acidic notes evoking passion fruit. The cocoa, rich in lipids, is creamy and silky.
Terroir: Cocoa of the Chuncho variety (regional variety) from the plateaus of the Quillabamba valley, in the Cusco region. It is rare to find cocoa at an altitude of over 1,000m. However, the Quillabamba valley has offered unique conditions for centuries, allowing "Chuncho Urushaia" cocoa to stand out with its floral and blueberry notes. Some cocoa trees in the region live for up to 200 years. This cocoa is known for its flavors but also for the naturally high proportion of cocoa butter in the bean, rich in lipids. This cocoa was rediscovered only about twenty years ago and is now the subject of patient revaluation efforts thanks to hundreds of small farmers, grouped into cooperatives. Difficult to cultivate and process, it is fragile against diseases, limiting its production.
PERU, PIURA 70%
Aromas and notes
A refreshing bar, the "Gran Blanco" cocoa, reminiscent of its Nacional variety heritage, carries sweet notes rich in citrus, reminding us of orange, lemon, and tangerine.
Terroir: Piura, considered one of the birthplaces of wild original cocoa, Peru has preserved a rich heritage of native varieties, including the famous white beans of "Gran Blanco" or "Albino" cocoa. Rediscovered in the 2000s, and since considered one of the noblest in the world, known as "Fino de Aroma," this white-bean cocoa is grown in the fertile valley of Alto Piura, in the northwest of the country. The beans have floral and citrus aromas.
Portrait of Zulema and Giuseppe, founders of Maraná
Would you like to continue your discovery of Peruvian cocoa? We recommend the following websites and articles:
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