For the beginning of 2024, we are heading to Haiti to introduce you to a region that has made its entry into the world of fine and aromatic cocoa in recent years. Beans known for being sweet and lightly bitter, but which primarily represent a new impactful culture that is disrupting socio-economic and environmental models.
The Development of Cocoa
The year when cocoa cultivation took a turn in Haiti was 2009, with the integration of local bean fermentation. Thanks to technical support from foreign cooperatives (Peruvian and French), producers became aware of the importance of the cocoa fermentation step (releasing aroma precursors) for opening up to the global market. Since this innovation, Haiti's terroir has gained access to high-end artisan chocolatiers and has been able to consolidate sustainable cooperatives of small producers.
Agroforestry for Reforestation
Haiti's orchards are mainly composed of Criollo and Trinitario. Cocoa cultivation in Haiti is not a monoculture but the result of agroforestry systems. This practice has been locally established and allows farmers to limit the risks associated with food insecurity by diversifying crops. Cocoa cultivation helps limit soil erosion, a major problem on the island due to massive deforestation (forest cover less than 2%) exacerbated by steep terrain. Cocoa farms and other plants help retain fertile soil layers through their deep and perennial roots. While being sustainable, this practice also positively influences soil quality by combining crops such as yams, plantains, cassava, and large trees (etc).
The deforestation and erosion boundary between Haiti (left) and the Dominican Republic (right), Nasa photo
The Challenges of Cocoa
For a long time, the 4,000 to 6,000 tons of annual cocoa were consumed by industrialists for mediocre quality chocolate due to poor or no fermentation. With the integration of fermentation protocols and the opening of new markets like Bean-to-Bar in the 2010s, cocoa farmers were able to turn to aromatic cocoa sold 30% above market price. The farms are mostly family-owned, 1-3 hectares, and organized into cooperatives.
PISA Cocoa
This month, we present a chocolate from StandOut, a Swedish chocolatier who transformed beans from the Produits des Îles Cooperative (PISA). This cooperative was founded in 2014, located in the north of the country near Cap-Haïtien, giving its name to the origin of the bar. With their agronomy knowledge, the founders were able to create a network of 1,500 small producers by obtaining organic certifications.
StandOut - Cap Haitien dark Milk 60%
A divinely smooth bar with a creamy texture and aromas of toasted nuts and vanilla, a signature of PISA cocoa. Slight vegetal notes are added, evoking black olives. Enjoy your tasting!
PISA Coop Acul-du-Nord, Haiti.
PISA Coop, fermentation station
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